Part I: Westbound to Kanchanaburi

After 17 hours on Asiana Airlines, a momentary stopover in Seoul, South Korea, the first few chapters of On the Road, a few This American Life episodes and failed attempts at sleep, a 40 minute bus ride from the airport in Bangkok to an after-hours fruit market and a $1.20 taxi ride from there to the main train station in Bangkok, I've met up with Kevin and am completely wrapped up in the Thai experience :)

Kevin met me at the train station around 12:30 a.m., where I had plopped my backpack down and settled in with the countless other Thais waiting for the first train of the morning.  I had peeled off my socks and long-sleeve shirt, the first trickles of sweat already running down my cheeks, and had nearly nodded off to sleep when Kevin came strolling around the corner and whisked me away to an air-conditioned hotel room.  I was completely drained.

The next morning, we boarded a hot, sweaty, gritty third-class train for the western cultural city of Kanchanaburi.  Built along the banks of the infamous River Kwai, Kanchanaburi is home to a bridge built by the Japanese Army in 1942 during its brief occupation of Thailand (and made famous by the novel and film Bridge over the River Kwai).  We then toured a monastery and wildlife refuge called the Tiger Temple (Wat Luang Ta Bua Yanna Sampanno).  Monks and other volunteers take care of orphaned tigers and cubs, peacocks and native heard animals--all of whom run and eat and play together, and all of whom you can pet and take pictures with. Indeed, Kevin and I have pictures petting tiger cubs and up close and personal with peacocks in full feather.  

The Thais are friendly and helpful, full of smiles and hellos and pleases and thank yous.  It is nearing the hot season, and the days are humid and sweaty and gritty and almost too much to take for more than a little while.  Thankfully, there is cold water and fresh fruit smoothies that are so cold and sweet with chunks of fresh fruit.  The markets are full of oranges and pineapples and mangoes and papayas and coconuts all freshly picked--all of these very plentiful and plenty cheap!

Kevin is tanned and healthy and totally in the groove of Thai life.  I am pale and thirsty and tired, but getting there :)  And the food...oh the food!  The fried rice with vegetables has become my staple, and the peanut sauce has a sweeter, almost fruity flavor to it.  Everything is so fresh and flavorful and slowly cooked with care.  The portions are small, so we've been eating frequently, but who cares when the food is this good.  Life moves pretty slow here, but it's too hot to move any faster :)

The evenings have been so relaxing.  A cool shower, a little reading, some food, a one-hour oil massage that is so nice and costs just pennies, a beer or two and bed.  Is there anything better?  I think not!

And then there's the 7-11s.  The question here in Thailand is not, "where is the 7-11?" but "where is the best 7-11?" :)  Kevin claims they were spawned here.  I believe he's right.

So, here we are in Kanchanaburi, waiting for a bus to the old Thai capital and cultural center of Ayuthaya, just north of Bangkok.  It's noon, hot and sticky and a three-hour air-conditioned bus ride sounds nice.  We will move from there up to the northern hippie outpost of Pai (pronounced "bye") for some jungle trekking.  

And finally, for those of you wondering what time it is over here--we are 12 hours ahead of EDT and 15 hours ahead of PST.  Yes, we are in the future!

Laa kawn (goodbye)